Frequently Asked Questions

Artificial grass offers a low-maintenance, green lawn all year round. It eliminates the need for watering, mowing, fertilising, and pest control – making it eco-friendly and cost-effective over time.

Yes! Many homeowners choose the DIY route. However, it requires proper preparation (excavation, levelling, laying base material, and securing the turf). If you’re not confident with landscaping projects, hiring a professional is recommended for best results.

High-quality artificial turf typically lasts 15–20 years, depending on usage and maintenance. UV-resistant varieties maintain their colour longer, especially in sunny climates.

A well-draining base is key. Typically, it’s a layer of crushed rock or decomposed granite, compacted to create a stable and level surface. A weed barrier fabric is often added before laying the turf.

Yes. Most artificial grass products have perforated backing that allows water to drain through to the base layer and ground beneath. Proper installation ensures efficient drainage.

Block paving (also called brick paving) involves laying individual blocks or bricks in patterns to create a hard, decorative surface – commonly used for driveways, patios, and walkways.

• Durable and long-lasting
• Visually appealing with various colours, shapes, and patterns
• Easy to repair (individual blocks can be replaced)
• Permeable options available for drainage
• Increases property value

Yes, it’s a can be a DIY project, but it requires careful groundwork, levelling, and compacting. If done incorrectly, it can lead to poor drainage or uneven surfaces. For a professional finish, hiring an experienced installer is recommended.

A proper sub-base is essential for a long-lasting driveway:

• Excavation to the correct depth (typically 200–250mm)
• Geotextile membrane (optional, helps prevent weed growth)
• Sub-base layer of MOT Type 1 (compacted)
• Screeded sand layer for levelling

For an average-sized driveway (around 50m²), it typically takes 3–5 days, depending on complexity, weather, and number of workers.

Usually not, if using permeable paving or ensuring proper drainage into soft ground or soakaways. Non-permeable surfaces that drain into public sewers may require planning approval in some areas.

Common patterns include:

• Herringbone (45 or 90 degrees) – best for driveways due to interlocking strength
• Stretcher bond
• Basketweave
• Circular or radial patterns for decorative areas

• Sweep regularly to remove debris
• Pressure wash occasionally
• Re-sand joints with kiln-dried sand after cleaning
• Treat for weeds or moss growth as needed
• Sealant (optional) can help protect and enhance colour

If the sub-base is not properly compacted or if drainage is poor, blocks may shift or sink. A professional installation with a well-compacted base minimises this risk.

Costs vary by choice of design and materials. Please contact us for a free no obligation quotation.

Yes! Options include:

• Concrete blocks (most common)
• Clay bricks (more colourfast and traditional)
• Natural stone (premium look, more expensive) Each has different colours, textures, and finishes.

Yes – with proper installation, including edge restraints and correct laying patterns, block paving can be used on sloped driveways without issue.

It depends on your style, budget, and how you’ll use the space. Common options include:

• Concrete – affordable and versatile
• Natural stone (like sandstone, limestone, slate) – premium look
• Concrete pavers – uniform, durable, many styles
• Porcelain tiles – modern, low-maintenance
• Gravel – budget-friendly, quick to install

Each has pros and cons in terms of maintenance, cost, and aesthetics.

In most cases, no – especially for ground-level patios in your garden. However, you might need permission if:

• You’re altering drainage significantly
• Your property is listed or in a conservation area
• The patio is raised over a certain height

Yes, many people DIY their patios, especially smaller ones using pavers or slabs. You’ll need to:

• Excavate and level the area
• Add a compacted sub-base (usually MOT Type 1)
• Lay a bedding layer (sand or mortar)
• Install slabs/pavers and joint them properly

Larger or more intricate patios may be best left to professionals.

For an average patio (20–40m²), installation can take 2 to 5 days, depending on the size, design, and weather.

A proper base ensures your patio stays level and doesn’t shift. Typically:

• 100–150mm of compacted MOT Type 1 sub-base
• 25–50mm of sand or mortar bedding layer
• Optional geotextile membrane to prevent weeds

Patios should have a fall of at least 1:60 (about 1.5cm per meter) to direct water away from your house. This prevents puddling and water damage.

Prices vary by material, size, and access. Please contact us for a free no obligation quotation.

• Keeps slabs stable
• Prevents weed growth
• Helps with water runoff

Options include dry sand, brush-in compounds, mortar, or resin-based jointing.

• Sweep regularly
• Pressure wash occasionally (but gently with certain materials)
• Treat for algae or moss
• Repoint joints if they crack or degrade Sealing is optional, but it can help protect against stains and fading.

It’s best to install patios in dry conditions. Wet weather can interfere with mortar setting and make levelling more difficult. Spring, summer, and early autumn are ideal times.

Sealing is optional but beneficial for:

• Preventing stains
• Enhancing colour of stone or pavers
• Reducing algae growth Not all materials require sealing — for example, porcelain is very low maintenance.

Yes, but it requires more preparation, such as:

• Terracing
• Retaining walls
• Extra levelling A professional installer can help design a safe, attractive solution.